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Hoe een cosmetica label lezen?
Vaak wordt in reclames, of op webshop sites gerefereerd aan ingrediënten die een product bevat. Er wordt veel moois over verteld. En het belooft van alles.
Dure benamingen, onuitspreekbare namen, alles zie en hoor je voorbij komen. Maar hoe moet je nu een etiket van bijvoorbeeld zo’n aangeprezen product lezen?
Voor de leek die niet in die industrie werkt vrijwel onmogelijk.
Ik zal het jullie een beetje uitleggen. Het is niet moeilijk, je moet alleen een paar regels weten.
Het is namelijk zo dat in Europa de cosmetica brance verplicht is (vrijwel) alle ingrediënten te benoemen op de labels. En dat gaat in volgorde van hoeveelheid die is gebruikt in het product. Dat waarvan er het meest in zit moet dus als eerste genoemd worden. En van daaruit verder.
De reden dat men verplicht is (vrijwel) alle ingrediënten te benoemen is om de consument te laten weten wat ze op hun lijf gebruiken. Niet dat ze het ons er makkelijker op maken met al die moeilijke termen.
Je moet er al haast een hele studie voor gevolgd hebben wil je dat kunnen ontcijferen. Om nog maar niet te spreken van de afmetingen van die kleine lettertjes
Alle ingrediënten die met meer dan 1% voorkomen moeten in eerder volgorde benoemd worden. Is het minder dan 1% van het totaal dan mag het in elke willekeurige volgorde. Dit zijn vaak de conserveringsmiddelen, geuren en kleuren.
We nemen als voorbeeld het volgende label van een gezichts moisturizer:
Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceteareth 20, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Erythrulose, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract (Avocado), Avena Sativa Meal Extract (Oat), Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Extract (Jojoba), Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil (Olive), Tocopherol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearic Acid, Acrylates/C10 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin, BHT, Fragrance, Caramel, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Dihydroxyacetone
Het eerste ingredient is water, wat inhoudt dat deze formule voornamelijk uit water bestaat. Gemiddeld bestaat een lotion/moisturizer uit 80% water (dat is even een weetje). Het volgende ingrediënt is Glycerine. Dat gemiddeld genomen voor 5% wordt gebruikt in producten. De volgende ingrediënten die genoemd worden kunnen elk voor 1-3% voorkomen.
Kijk maar eens naar labels van andere moisturizers, je zult er veel van dezelfde ingredienten in vinden in de eerste regel.
Welnu, als we dan bij de meer “natuurlijk” klinkende ingrediënten komen zit je dus al op de 2e regel, en een percentage van 1%. Hier wordt bijvoorbeeld Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract (Avocado extract) genoemd, daarvan zit dus minder dan 1% in deze lotion!
Over het algemeen genomen zijn natuurlijke ingrediënten behoorlijk duur, en niet altijd even effectief, dat is meestal de reden dat er maar zo weinig van in zit.
De meeste fabrikanten voegen deze “spotlight” ingredienten toe om het in reclames te kunnen gebruiken. Om aan te geven dat hun formule verschilt van die van andere fabrikanten.
De waarheid, over het algemeen, is eerder dat de werkelijke werking van een product komt van de ingrediënten die voor meer dan 1% voorkomen in een product.
Ik zeg hierbij met opzet , over het algemeen, omdat er ook zeker wel ingrediënten zijn die, ook al bevat het product maar 1% ervan, wel degelijk werken. Maar over het algemeen geldt toch de regel dat hoe meer er van een ingredient aanwezig is in een product des te beter het werkt.
Conclusie:
Ingredienten etiketten/labels worden gemaakt om je te voorzien van informatie over de producten die je dagelijks gebruikt. Ze moeten in een strikte volgorde vermeldt worden en als je die volgorde kent kan je heel veel te weten komen over de samenstelling van een product.
Doe eens een test! De volgende keer dat je overweegt meer dan 20 euro uit te geven aan een “geweldige haarconditioner”, vergelijk dan eens het etiket met dat van een conditioner die rond de 8 euro kost. Grote kans dat je verrast zult zijn door de overeenkomsten qua ingredienten!
Bijdrage Caroline
En natuurlijk moest ik na het lezen van dit artikel het zelf eens testen. Ik raapte dan ook een aantal shampoo's, reinigingsmelken van verschillende prijsklassen bijeen en deed de test!
Label van de Gliss Kur Liquid Silk Shampoo
Mijn eerste conclusie was dat het special ingredient vaak helemaal onderaan de lijst staat, wat dus wilt zeggen dat het er slechts minder dan 1% van in zit. Behoorlijk choquerend als je denk een Liquid Silk Gloss Shampoo te kopen en het blijkt bijna niets van in zetten. Of de Fresh Cleansing Milk met komkommer van Bourjois bevat ook slechts minder dan 1% komkommer.
Maar Caroline verzekerde me dat het daarom niet werkt, maar ik vind het gewoon grappig dat het de titel van het product is, maar het er het minst van al in zit 
Verder merkte ik dat mijn Kérastase shampoo heel erg veel dezelfde ingrediënten heeft als mijn Gliss Kur Liquid Silk Gloss Shampoo. Maar liefst 7 van de eerste ingrediënten kwamen overeen. Daarna begon de volgorde wat te verschillen.
Ik wou dat ik jullie een foto kon tonen, maar de ingrediëntenlijst op producten is behoorlijk moeilijk te fotograferen Ik zou zeggen kijk zelf even je producten na!
Comments
Dat is inderdaad een goede marketing. Denk maar eens aan al die reclame over producten met kaviaar, koninginnengelei etc.
Ook even de ingrediënten nagekeken van mijn Weleda hydraterende crème amandel: Water, Sweet Almond Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Alcohol, Hydrolysed beeswax, Plum oil, Glycerin, Xantham Gum, Lactic Acid.
Valt dan nog goed mee
In jouw hydraterende creme zit inderdaad een fijne portie amandel olie, zeker beduidend meer dan die 1% of minder 
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Evi. let wel dat het soms niet meer dan 1% nodig is om goed te werken. Het is dus zeker niet zo dat het per definitie niet werkt omdat er maar zo weinig in zit.
Oke dat begrijp ik, maar het is wel grappig dat dat de titel van het product is, en het er het minst van al inzit
Interessant ! Ik lees nooit de labels, ga dat nu wat vaker doen
Denk je een speciale crème te kopen, betaal je eigenlijk veel geld voor voornamelijk water hihi.
Heel interessant dit, vind het super dat je dit soort artikelen ook plaatst.
Ja ik heb het zelf ook in één stuk gelezen, Caroline legt het heel erg duidelijk uit! Als je zelf nog vragen hebt kan je ze altijd achterlaten in de comments voor haar.
Gaaf dat je ook zulke artikelen schrijft ! Ik vind het best raar dat een product maar 1 procent van z'n naam in zich heeft zitten, maar als je logisch nadenkt dan is het eigenlijk best wel.. logisch 
Het is toch allemaal de grote reclame wereld en het gaat om de centjes.. Erg leuk! Ik heb vaak geen zin om zulke lange stukken te lezen maar deye keer heb ik het wel gedaan en het was leuk en interessant!
x
Dankjewel Martine, maar dit stuk is geschreven door Caroline, zelf weet ik hier ook niet zoveel van. Maar zij kan het echt heel goed uitleggen. Ik weet het is een lang stuk tekst, maar het leest echt heel erg vlot!
Verder merkte ik dat mijn Kérastase shampoo heel erg veel dezelfde ingrediënten heeft als de Gliss Kur Liquid Silk Gloss Shampoo.
Leuk en handig artikel! Met veel plezier gelezen. Maar wat is glycerine dan ?
Thx voor de spellingcorrectie, heb het meteen ff aangepast
Hier vind je een heel artikel over wat glycerine is http://www.lovetomakeup.be/blog/beauty/glycerine
handig! ga er seves is enkele bekijken!
Handig artikel! Ga er vanaf nu ook meer op beginnen letten en straks een paar shampoos vergelijken
Geweldig artikel Caroline en Evi! It's all about the marketing
Ik ga zo eens mijn John Frieda bruinehaartjesshampoo en sunsilk bruine harenshampoo eens van dichterbij bekijken!
Hey Evi,
Zou je eens een artikel kunnen doen over parabenen.
Ik krijg veel tegenstrijdige antwoorden: is het nu slecht voor jou of valt het allemaal wel mee?
Ik zal het doorgeven aan Caroline die deze artikels schrijft. Want hiervan weet ik zelf ook niet zo veel vanaf! Ik vind het erg leerijk en leuk om te lezen.
Ontzettend interessant weer!
Ik heb nooit stil gestaan met die volgorde en dacht ook eigenlijk dat die random was. Ik ga zeker eens op mijn producten kijken en ze vergelijken 
Ook nooit bij nagedacht dat sommige producten puur zijn voor de markteting. Ik moet toegeven dat dat wel heel slim is
Ik wist wel dat waar het meest van in zit (meestal water) er het eerst moet opstaan.
Maar nu ik daarstraks eens een aantal producten bekeek viel het me inderdaad op dat de ingredienten die de reclame in de spotlight plaatst vaak op de laatste rij staan, en dus in heel kleine hoeveelheid maar in het product zitten. *Vind dit schandalig!*-
Altijd handig om te weten!
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